What the government (Shogun) tried to do might be better explained if you have seen some Kabuki costumes. They are gorgeous, colorfully loaded with gold and silver threads. The government issued sumptuary laws one after the other to put a stop to the extravagant lifestyle of the merchant class who were socially ranked at the bottom; Samurai at the top, farmers, artisans and merchants followed after.

The government limited the use of gold and silver threads even to the extent of how intricate a weaving or embroidery could be. It pushed people to look for alternatives and it even stimulated culture by bringing newer techniques. When the size of Hina dolls was limited, the doll makers managed to put more details and luxuries into smaller dolls.

This is how the Yuzen zome (paste resist dying method) that you see in this kimono was born. Until then, the dyeing method was very limited to simpler techniques as tie dye or ita-zome. It is said that the weavers from Kyoto commissioned a popular fan painter, Miyazaki Yuzensai, to paint on silk to cope with the changes that they were placed under. The color bleeds on silk. Yuzen perfected the paintings on silk fabric by using the paste-resist method. By outlining or covering the design areas with the paste, the dye artists can work with the design more freely in detail.

Here, you are looking at a beautiful example of a Kyoto Yuzen-zome with Bokashi shade dyeing enriched with detailed embroidery and gold couching. The flying cranes, pine trees, plum trees, mino-game turtles on huge rocks or by the ocean, are all symbols of the happiness that we long for.

This may or may not be for a bride. The sleeves are short; they may have been cut later to wear for a new year. The condition of this antique is very well preserved; it is entirely thinly padded, the basting stitches, silver couching stitches and embroidery are still in excellent condition, showing how someone must have treasured this kimono. The black dye is now a dark brown, very soft silk lined with beautiful, soft red silk. Circa, late Edo to Meiji period (1868-1912). Not wearable, please. The dimension: 50 1/2 inches sleeve to sleeve, 59 inches long, feather light.